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$71.00
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Santa Maria Valley
It is hard to describe this wine because it breaks all the rules;
in fact, it teaches the lesson that there really are no rules.
Decades ago I believed that a wine type should have a particular
acidity level and pH and if they were not correct, one adjusted
them. I realized this logic was wrong back in 1989 when Jim
Clendenen and I made a chardonnay from Rancho Vinedo. By the
numbers, it seemed slightly deficient in acidity, so I added a
little grape (tartaric) acid during its barrel fermentation.
As it turned out, Bob Lindquist also got a batch of the same grapes
but made the wine without added acid. After harvest, when we tried
the two wines together, it became obvious to me that Bob's wine was
delicious while the added acid in our wine stuck out like a sore
thumb. Despite a decade of winemaking experience, until then, I
hadn't figured out that I shouldn't rely on numbers.
Although unmanipulated in any way, this Bien Nacido syrah is wrong
as far as numbers go--it is too high in acidity and too high in
alcohol, but the aroma and flavors are truly fantastic. From its
near black color, you can tell you're in for a mouthful, but it's
surprising how balanced this large-scale wine is. The aroma grabs
you with an appealing toasty quality which is quickly overwhelmed
by luxurious dark-plum fruitiness, and then finishes with a strong
peppery, floral brightness. The flavor is so concentrated and rich,
yet it feels light on the palate because of the wine's juicy
acidity. This special and delicious wine is ready to enjoy now, and
it will continue to evolve for at least a decade more.
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